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... the final frontier. Join me on my quest to rid the Earth (well... Brighton) of all mediocre eateries in an effort to bring decent cuisine to everyone everywhere (okay… just Brighton really).

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The Mock Turtle - “The time has come,” the Walrus said, “to talk of other things.”

July 25, 2006

The Mock Turtle - Jams, etc.
4 Pool Valley, Old Lanes (next to Bus Station)

I’m always in two minds as to whether or not it’s worth blogging what are considered (and rightfully so) to be Brighton institutions. Then I think of the weary traveller who perhaps has come across my blog in search of a place to rest their weary feet after their sojourn to the seaside. So I know that I should, nae, I must blog such lovely wee places such as our historical Mock Turtle.

The Mock Turtle - MeringueI was first recommended the Mock Turtle by my good friend “S”. So last Christmas when my gran was over for an extended visit we took a few trips here merely because I knew this was going to most likely be the only tea shop in Brighton that my granny, she of the gluten-free persuasion, could enjoy a cuppa and a treat. This is due to their infamous meringues. To say that they are large is an understatement and like all the other baked goodies at the Mock Turtle, they are handmade on the premises. They came in a variety of wonderfully delicious flavours that change daily, including vanilla, raspberry and coffee.

The Mock Turtle - Ginger BeerI finally took Stephen there this past Sunday (he being the MT virgin) and I indulged in a vanilla one, as a shout-out of sorts to my gran. I did not, however, pour out my tea on the sidewalk in her honour. (To self: Do I leave in this joke, knowing that most of the British population won’t get it? What the hell. It makes me giggle and if they’ve at least seen Austin Powers or have any knowledge of hip-hop culture whatsoever, they just might get it.) Stephen indulged in the vanilla cheesecake and a mocha and I chose some lovely Fentiman’s ginger beer to accompany my meringue.

Yeah, yeah. I know it’s a teashop but we are having some VERY warm weather here. Warm for England anyways. For those looking for a wonderful cuppa, trust me, this is the real deal. They bring out all the hoopla necessary for a good cup of tea, including loose tea leaves, strainer, etc. The Girl Wonder was quite impressed, she being of the tea-snob persuasion. I can never seem to get the hack of it and half the time I’m topping up my tea without using the strainer. It makes me feel like such a big Yank.

The Mock Turtle - DoughnutsMy Yank sensibilities also love a good donut. I remember swooping down upon Krispy Kreme in Harrods food hall like common trailer trash. And biting into them only to get jam down the front of me, again, like common trailer trash. My momma would’ve been so proud! So when the Girl Wonder let me sample a bit of her homemade Mock Turtle jam donut, I wept on the inside, knowing that my allegiance to The Krispy Kreme was now unsettled, for this donut was, dare I say, superior in almost every way. I mean my God, just look at them! Are they not the most amazing thing you’ve ever seen?? They also have chocolate ones that are just smeared all over in chocolate frosting. What you can’t see is the huge squirt of fresh whipped cream that they inject into it before serving it up or that they are the size of a small grapefruit. They have them to take away as well. They’re also now open on Sundays.

The Mock Turtle - Buns!If your appetite is crying out for more than a pastry and some tea, never fear because they also have light breakfast and lunch menus which includes fish and chips, salads, homemade soup, the best Welsh rarebit I’ve ever had and loads of other very English dishes. Sunday was the first time I’ve been back since the place changed hands, the previous owners having run it for 30 years and now enjoying their much-deserved retirement I imagine. Not much has changed, which is very comforting. There are still shelves stocked of homemade preserves and loads of different cakes and breads to take away, such as the banana and walnut pictured here. It’s all too picture-perfect, being the exact kind of place that the Old Dears love to stop off at before catching their bus back to Wherevershire or Someotherhampton after their day at the seaside. We had a table of them sitting right next to us and the dialogue-well, I couldn’t have made up better stuff if I tried:

The Mock Turtle“I hear that they might get married but she’s nervous ya know, not one to commit, especially these days who can blame her what with over half of marriages failing!”

“There is really nothing like a nice cuppa tea. I guess that’s just how us English are, everything in the world stops for tea! And look at this lovely blue and white crockery, I just love it! My friend Ethel has a very similar set herself.”

“Oh look at the lovely shadowboxes they have on the wall! I started doing those myself, shadowboxes!”

“My word, would you look at the size of those donuts! We could split one between the 3 of us, they’re so large! Mind you, I’m not one to eat lots of sweets, never really eat biscuits and such.”

“That bus is going to be so hot on the way home! Thank God it’s air-conditioned, I’m not used to this sort of heat!”

Gourmet Burger Kitchen - it’s about time.

June 28, 2006

44-47 Gardner Street, North Laine

Do you see this burger?? That’s right. Take a good long look at it. I am still quite the amateur at food photography and yet it still looks like you’d sell your granny for it. Kiwi-owned chain GBK has made it out of London and now Brightonians get to chow down on these most lovely of burgers. The one here on the left is their Stilton burger, accompanied with all the fixin’s. Can you see how the bun is lightly toasted? And how the Stilton sauce is just oozing off of it? Too bad I’ve got plans to go to Mojo’s tonight because I’d be all over GBK like a debt collector on payday. Their premise is simple: grab a table, decide which burger you’d like from one of two lifesize menus on the wall and then go up, place your order and pay. GBK keeps it simple. No desserts, sides are either salad or fries BUT there is booze. And kid’s meals. And milkshakes. I haven’t had one but Stephen gave it the thumbs-up.

The burgers range from your classic cheese or bacon to more adventurous offerings such as mango & chilli sauce, chicken, camembert & cranberry, chorizo & sweet potato, venison with redcurrant sauce and three types of veggie burgers; aubergine & goats cheese, falafel with raita and portabello musroom with rocket & pesto:

I had to take it apart and work from there. It was quite yummy. However, I needed to experience the beef burger and so went back and this time got my favourite combo; cheese, bacon & BBQ sauce. It was so incredibly messy and the first bite left relish down the front of my jumper but I did not care I tell you, such great lust I had for this burger! The portions of chips are massive (well, they’re massive when you’re trying to finish your burger) so we split one portion between the 3 of us and it was plenty!

The decor is beach-themed (of course, with the pebbles and the pics of old Brighton, etc) and there’s also an ever-changing backdrop of colour. I don’t see any need for all this showy flimflam! Just bring me my burger dammit! At least it’s nice and open for those brief summer days, complete with tables outside.

GBK is conveniently situated right next to Komedia if you’re planning an evening out there and is a fantastic place if you want something that’s not going to break the bank; their burgers are around £6-7 each depending on toppings. I’ve noticed that more places in the North Laine are attempting evening hours so now we have more choices than just the Dorset. All the places along Jubilee Street of course, there’s Mojo’s around the corner from the library, GBK’s neighbour, Pokeno Pies, and there’s a new Italian place on Sydney Street as well (sorry, the name escapes me but I know it’s BYO!).

For those of you who live in or near the North Laine, GBK also has a takeaway service. I have to stop writing now as it’s making me absolutely ravenous and my dinner reservation isn’t until eight.

Bodega D’Tapa - The Little Tapas Bar that Could

June 21, 2006

Church Street, Brighton (nestled between Waggon & Horses and the Black Horse)

As you may have noticed, I’m not really one for going all out in researching the places that I review. I don’t want to drone on and on about a place if all a person wants to know is whether or not they’re going to enjoy a meal there. That’s one of the things that puts me off most restaurant reviews, the sheer volume of information that your average, everyday person doesn’t really want to know. They also tend to be slightly pretentious and therefore alienate many potential readers. They don’t keep it real like yours truly. Fo’ shizzle.

However, I do think a little bit of background info is nice sometimes, if only because Brighton is a small town and it’s nice to know a bit about the people that own these lovely eateries that make Brighton the town we love. Why am I telling you all of this? Well, simply because while googling for info about Bodega D’Tapa I discovered (courtesy of the Argus) some pretty neat (that’s right. neat.) things about the owners of this teeny gem of a place. The owner, Genaro De Cala, is of quite the foodie aristocracy. His father’s family have been producing wine, sherry and vinegar in Spain since 1829 and his mother’s family have been producing manually-pressed olive oil at their own mills for about 200 years! As a Heather would say, “Colour me impressed girl.”

So as you can probably guess, not only do they serve up a selection of tapas but they also have some fine imported Spanish goods at your perusal, as well as high quality meats and cheeses. What high quality cheese it was! I love manchego (as I’ve mentioned in previous posts) and the manchego here was top notch. I went for lunch with the hub-bub in tow and my trusty French sidekick, Delphine. In addition to the lovely manchgo we also ordered the Iberian Selection, a plate of different Spanish cured meats, and the chorizo was simply divine. In addition to these we ordered some roasted red peppers that were served with spears of pickled white asparagus, olives, bread and the lentil casserole. Also at our table was the obligatory pitcher of sangria. Did I mention that we were out back in the wee garden? It’s all very rustic. When I say rustic I mean I was sitting on a bit of wooden bench that was very wobbly. I tried another bit of bench but it was equally as wobbly. All part of the charm, eh?

I wouldn’t recommend this place for vegetarians as I only noted about 3 items on their (naturally small) menu that were veggie. This doesn’t mean that they couldn’t whip something up for you I suppose, I never thought to ask. Also, don’t plan on coming here with your whole office for an evening out as they would be hard pressed to seat even 20 people. That’s part of its charm though, it’s one of those places you can just drift into, have a wee bite and a couple of rounds, then drift back out into the North Laine and go about your day. I’ll be back, if only to get some of Genaro’s madre’s olive oil.

The Real Eating Company - quite possibly the Holy Grail of Brightonian foodies

June 20, 2006

86-87 Western Road, Hove

Many apologies to my readers for taking so long to post. Something about Blogger and Internet Explorer isn’t quite mixing these days. Also, I’ve been putting off this particular post for quite some time as I wanted to make several visits in order to give it the justice it deserves. After all, it won an Observer’s Food Award for one of the best retailers in the Southeast and I believe it is a very successful foodie enterprise owned by a woman. Oh yeah. Sisters are doin’ it for themselves indeed! I even attended one of their Cheese & Wine Evenings (do you see the sacrifices I make?) in addition to having lunch on at least three occasions. It’s only a hop, skip & jump from the building where I work. I know. Lucky, lucky chica.

The Real Eating Company functions as both a gourmet food shop/deli and a restaurant. Some foodie faves are on display here as well as homemade goodies:
(Tyrrell’s asparagus and black pepper crisps I can highly recommend although they are VERY pepper-y. I haven’t tried the Smoked Salmon and Horseradish flavour because unfortunately I don’t like salmon. I have to get my omega-3’s from flaxseed oil like the veg-heads.)

Onto the Cheese & Wine Evening. The cheese. Oh, the cheese. We were all given an info sheet and I noticed that the evening began with the most mild, a type of goat’s cheese, and ended with the almighty Stilton paired with a shot of brandy. We also had glasses of sparkling English wines, both white and rose, and some chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. I felt slightly intimidated as I’m only really beginning to embrace my inner cheesegeek but the info sheets were helpful as were the women conducting it.

Passing by on another occasion, my now slightly-more-confident inner cheesegeek got the best of me and I felt myself in a sort of trance, being led upstairs to their wonderful deli. The lady behind the counter was very kind and let me taste several cheeses, all of which are either British or Irish. (Sidenote: there are more types of cheese produced in Britain than in France.) She even managed to find me an English cheese that was quite similar to my cheese o’ the mo, manchego. It’s called Berkswell and it only lasted one day in my fridge. I also made purchase of some lovely soft cheese from Co Tipperary called Cooleeney (which I was very happy to find again this past weekend at St George’s market in Belfast) and of course, some of the REC’s own chutney. I even managed a small sliver (at £2.40) of the newly (thanks to a certain animated dog-owning cheese lover) famous Stinking Bishop. The verdict? VERY stinky. Also very lovely, if you like your cheese strong.

Along with all this lovely cheese, their deli contains several food and drink goodies, both local and imported. I nearly squealed (yes. squealed.) with ex-pat delight when I saw that they carry the uber-cool and award winning Pain is Good American hot sauces. Just look at those labels! Even if they weren’t fantastic (which they are) I’d love to have them just for the design. I wonder if PIG take submissions from the public. If they do, I’d love to submit my husband’s face upon biting into last night’s fajitas. They could call it “Great British Wuss” or something to that effect. I wonder if their supplier carries PIG’s line of bbq and pasta sauces. YUM. I think their Bloody Mary mixes would sell a storm as well!

Let’s get to the food already shall we? I’ve never been disappointed when going to the REC for lunch. I’ve yet to go for dinner, most likely due to sheer laziness. Go to Hove? For dinner? You mean get on a bus? Yeah, yeah. I’m workin’ on it already, sheesh. Below are some snapshots of a lunch I had with my friend Phil; I had the fish and chips (you know it better be good for a tenner) and he had the hare stew:

Small things like a homemade basket of bread totally win me over. I need to point out that this lunch is from at least 6 weeks ago as it’s not really summer fare. Phil was kind enough to let me sample his hare and lentil stew (first time I’ve had hare) and it was delicious. There were even bits of shot in it, similar to when he ordered the pheasant stew back in winter. Some would be squeamish but hey-you know it’s fresh and not intensively farm-reared. (They do their best to get it all out but sometimes it’s hard to find it all. Phil didn’t seem to mind and I don’t think most people would as long as you gave them a head’s up first.) Look at that order of fish and chips. The chips, cut perfectly and covered in flakes of sea salt. I should’ve taken a picture of my plate after I was finished eating. You would see that there wasn’t a bit of anything left, not even the homemade tartar sauce. It was very scrummy and very filling. So I ordered my lemon tart (the best I’ve ever had, surpassing Carluccio’s by a long shot) to go.

I feel a bit like I’m bowing at the altar here so I will add one slight criticism. I want you to know that it pains me to do so, mostly because I’m hoping that those in charge at the REC will see how much love I have for them and offer me a job. Alas, I must be true to my readers. They serve the lovely Luscombe range of drinks and I couldn’t help but notice that the takeaway price is less than half of the eat-in price. I’m well aware that restaurants bring in the majority of their profits through drinks, alcoholic and non alike, but that much of a mark-up would turn some people away. I point this out because it pains me to think that there is a demographic of people out there that won’t experience the REC simply on this merit but I’m telling you, I know that they’re out there. I’m married to one of them.